Hiring a Roofer FAQ

Five things that matter, in order of importance:

1. State contractor's license — Verify through your state's licensing board website. Most states have a searchable online database. A license number on a business card is not verification — look it up yourself.

2. Insurance — Two types required: General liability (covers damage to your property) and workers' compensation (covers injuries to the crew). Ask for certificates naming you as an additional insured. If a worker falls on your property without workers' comp coverage, you could be liable.

3. Physical local presence — A company with a local office, trucks with company branding, and a team that's been working your market for years is far lower risk than someone who showed up after last week's storm with a rented dumpster. Storm chasers are real and problematic.

4. Written, itemized estimate — Specifying exact materials (manufacturer, product name, shingle grade, underlayment type), scope of work, payment schedule, and warranty terms. A two-line quote with just a total price is not an estimate.

5. Verifiable references — Not "references available upon request" — actual phone numbers for recent customers in your area who you can call. Ask specifically about projects similar to yours.

Every state has an online contractor licensing verification system. Here's the process:

1. Ask the contractor for their state contractor's license number 2. Go to your state's Contractor Licensing Board or Department of Consumer Affairs website 3. Search by license number or business name 4. Confirm: the license is active, the name matches the company you're dealing with, the license type covers roofing or general contracting, and there are no disciplinary actions

Don't skip this step. Unlicensed contractors appear legitimate — they have business cards, websites, sometimes vehicles with logos. The license check takes 3 minutes and is the only reliable verification.

Note on state-specific requirements: Some states (Florida, Texas, California, others) have particularly robust licensing systems. Others have more limited requirements. In states with minimal licensing, membership in the National Roofing Contractors Association (NRCA) or other trade organizations is a useful secondary indicator of professionalism.

Minimum requirements before any contractor steps foot on your roof:

General Liability Insurance: Covers damage to your property during the project. Minimum: $1,000,000 per occurrence. Ask to be named as an additional insured on the certificate — this matters.

Workers' Compensation Insurance: Covers injuries to workers on your property. This is the critical one. Without it, an injured worker may file a claim against your homeowner's insurance or pursue you personally. In some states, contractors with fewer than a certain number of employees are exempt — this doesn't protect you if someone gets hurt.

How to verify: Ask for certificates from their insurance agent, not copies they hand you. Call the insurance company on the certificate to confirm the policy is current. Contractors sometimes carry insurance certificates for policies they've since let lapse.

What if they're uninsured? Walk away. A roofing project with an uninsured crew is a meaningful liability risk to you as the homeowner. The $1,000 you save on a cheaper quote is not worth it.

Three is the standard recommendation, and for good reason. Here's what you're actually comparing:

Are they specifying the same scope? Two quotes for different materials or omitting different components are not comparable. One may specify a 30-year architectural shingle with synthetic underlayment; another may quote a 25-year product with felt paper. The "cheaper" estimate may be a lesser job.

Are warranty terms the same? 2-year workmanship vs. 10-year workmanship is a significant difference that doesn't show up in the price line.

Is the payment schedule similar? A contractor asking for 50% upfront is a yellow flag. 10–15% deposit, balance at completion is the industry standard.

Do the bids explain what they include? A $10,000 bid with three line items is less trustworthy than a $11,500 bid with 12 line items that matches what you asked for.

Red flag: a quote that's 30–40% below the others. Either they're using inferior materials, they're planning to cut corners on installation, or they've missed scope. None of these outcomes are good for you.

The warning signs that experienced homeowners learn to recognize:

High-pressure tactics — "This price is only good today." A legitimate contractor gives you time to make a decision. Artificial urgency is a manipulation tactic.

Door-to-door solicitation after a storm — Storm chasers follow weather events and knock on doors offering quick fixes. Some are legitimate local contractors; many are not. Even if legitimate, they may not be around next year when a repair issue arises.

Requesting full payment upfront — No reputable contractor requires 100% payment before starting. Standard: small deposit ($500–$1,500) at signing, balance at substantial completion or after inspection.

No written contract or vague estimate — "We'll take care of everything" without a written scope is a setup for disputes.

Offering to waive your deductible — Insurance fraud. Illegal in most states. Walk away immediately.

Can't provide license number or insurance certificates on the spot — These are basic credentials. Any legitimate contractor has them available.

No physical address or local presence — A contractor who operates from a P.O. box or who's new to your market after a storm is higher risk than an established local business.

Substandard online presence — No reviews, no BBB record, no business history. Doesn't disqualify them, but warrants extra verification.

A roofing contract protects you. A proper contract includes:

Parties and date: Your name, the contractor's name and license number, and the date.

Scope of work: Every task to be performed — removal of existing roofing, deck inspection and repair contingency, underlayment type, material specification (exact manufacturer and product), flashing work, ventilation, cleanup.

Materials specification: Manufacturer name, product name, color, weight class, and grade. Not "architectural shingles" — "GAF Timberline HDZ architectural shingles, Charcoal, 30-year."

Timeline: Start date and estimated completion date.

Payment schedule: Specific amounts and trigger points. Never agree to full payment upfront.

Warranty terms: Manufacturer material warranty registration process and duration. Contractor workmanship warranty duration and scope.

Change order provision: Any changes to scope must be agreed to in writing before work proceeds.

Dispute resolution: How disagreements are handled.

Permit responsibility: Who pulls the permit and who's responsible for inspections.

If a contractor presents a single-page contract that's mostly a liability waiver, ask for more detail or walk away.

Don't compare the bottom-line numbers until you've verified the estimates cover the same scope. Here's a comparison framework:

Step 1 — Materials: Are they specifying the same manufacturer and product? Different shingle grades have meaningfully different performance and cost. An estimate for 30-year architectural shingles vs. 25-year 3-tab is not the same job.

Step 2 — Underlayment: Is synthetic underlayment specified, or felt paper? Synthetic costs more and performs better. Felt paper on a reroof is a shortcut.

Step 3 — Ice and water shield: Is it specified? How much? In cold climates, this is a code requirement. Omitting it saves the contractor money at your long-term expense.

Step 4 — Flashings: Are new flashings explicitly included? Reusing old flashing on a new roof is a shortcut that typically fails within 5–10 years.

Step 5 — Decking: Does the estimate include a per-sheet contingency for decking replacement? If not, ask what happens when they find rotted decking.

Step 6 — Warranty: What workmanship warranty is offered in writing?

Step 7 — Permits: Is permit included, or additional?

Once you've normalized the estimates for scope, the price comparison becomes meaningful.

The standard industry practice: a deposit of 10–15% of the project total at contract signing, with the balance due at substantial completion (when the roof is installed and passing inspection).

Why any deposit at all? Legitimate contractors use the deposit to order your materials — shingles are typically ordered specifically for your project and must be secured. It also confirms your commitment before they schedule their crew.

Red flags on payment: - Full payment upfront — never agree to this. If a contractor demands 100% before starting, walk away. - Large deposit (>30%) before materials are ordered — yellow flag, especially from a new or unestablished company - Cash-only requests — professional roofing companies accept checks and credit cards. Cash-only is often a tax compliance issue and reduces your paper trail - Pressure to pay immediately — legitimate contractors work within a normal business payment process

After completion: Do a walk-through inspection before writing the final check. Confirm nail sweeps have been done, gutters and downspouts are clear of debris, and the work matches the written scope. Most contractors expect and respect a completion walk before final payment.

Storm chasers are roofing contractors who follow major weather events — large hail outbreaks, hurricanes, tornado events — and canvass affected neighborhoods offering quick repairs and insurance claim assistance. They're typically from out of state and move on after working the post-storm market.

The risks: - They won't be available for warranty claims when you need them next year - Quality varies enormously — many rush jobs to maximize volume - Some are involved in insurance fraud schemes (deductible waivers, inflated claims) - Licensing may be from another state and not valid locally - They may use unlicensed subcontractors who are also not local

They're not all bad. Some legitimate regional roofing companies respond to high-demand markets after storms — they're established, licensed, insured, and do quality work. The question is whether the contractor you're dealing with will be around in 3 years.

How to tell the difference: - Ask how long they've operated in your state specifically - Verify their state contractor's license in your state - Check for local reviews from your area (not just in their home state) - Ask for a local physical address and a local crew (not a scratch crew hired for the event) - Get a written warranty and ask what happens to it if they close your market

When in doubt: hire a local contractor who's been in your market for years. You can find them, they know your weather, and they have a reputation to protect.

Document first, act second. Here's the escalation path:

Step 1 — Document everything: Photos and video of the issue, dated. Written communication trail — text messages and emails are better than phone calls.

Step 2 — Raise it directly: Put your concern in writing to the contractor. Be specific: "The underlayment is not being lapped correctly at the valley — I'd like this corrected before shingles go on." Give them the opportunity to respond and correct.

Step 3 — Reference the contract: If the work doesn't match the written scope, point to the specific item. "Your estimate specified new flashings at all penetrations — I see the chimney flashing was not replaced."

Step 4 — Do not pay if work is incomplete or wrong: Withhold the final payment until the issue is resolved. This is your primary leverage. In most states, a contractor cannot file a mechanics lien for legitimately disputed work.

Step 5 — File a complaint: With your state contractor licensing board (they can revoke licenses), the BBB, and your insurance company if they referred the contractor.

Step 6 — Small claims or litigation: For amounts under $10,000–$15,000, small claims is accessible. For larger disputes, a construction attorney is appropriate.

Prevention is better: Before the project starts, establish clear written scope and payment terms, and do a midpoint walk-through when the decking is exposed and before shingles go on. Catching issues early costs less than fixing them after the roof is complete.