How to Choose a Roofer — 9 Things to Check Before You Hire
Updated June 2026 · 10 min read
Roofing is one of the largest home improvement purchases most people ever make — $10,000 to $20,000+ for a full replacement on a typical house. And yet homeowners routinely choose a contractor based primarily on price, a neighbor's recommendation, or whoever showed up first after the storm. That approach produces a lot of regret.
The contractor matters as much as the shingle. Here are the nine things worth checking before you sign anything.
Verify their license with your state licensing board
Most states require roofing contractors to hold a contractor's license. Don't take their word for it — look up the license number on your state's official licensing board website. This takes 2 minutes and immediately filters out the worst actors. A valid license means they passed a test, carry insurance as required by the state, and have a record you can look up.
Red flag: They don't know their license number, or it comes back expired or not found.
Request a Certificate of Insurance — and actually read it
Ask for a COI showing general liability (minimum $1M per occurrence) and workers' compensation coverage. The COI should list you or your property as an 'additional insured' for liability. Why this matters: if an uninsured worker falls off your roof, you as the property owner can be held liable. That's not a hypothetical — it happens regularly.
Red flag: They say they're insured but can't produce a COI, or the COI expiration is past.
Check how long they've been in business locally
Roofing is an industry with high contractor turnover. A company operating under the same name, in the same area, for 5+ years has demonstrated some staying power. This matters for warranty claims — a company that goes out of business two years after your reroof is not going to honor their labor warranty.
Red flag: Business registered in the last 6 months, or registered immediately after a major storm event in your area (a classic storm-chaser pattern).
Read recent reviews on Google and BBB
Focus on the most recent 6–12 months and look specifically at 1-star reviews — how the company responded tells you as much as the complaints themselves. A pattern of 'they didn't show up' or 'never came back to fix warranty issues' is a serious warning. Five-star reviews alone mean little; what you want is a high volume of recent 4–5 star reviews over a period of years.
Red flag: No reviews, all reviews from the same week, or the company responds to complaints with hostility.
Ask if they're factory-certified by the shingle manufacturer
GAF, CertainTeed, and Owens Corning all have contractor certification programs (GAF Master Elite, CertainTeed ShingleMaster, Owens Corning Preferred Contractor). Certified contractors unlock enhanced manufacturer warranties that cover both materials AND labor — which is where the real protection is. Non-certified contractors can only offer basic material warranties.
Red flag: They claim a certification that's not verifiable on the manufacturer's website.
Get a written, itemized scope of work
The quote should specify: shingle brand and product name, underlayment type, whether drip edge and starter strip are included, tearoff and disposal, decking inspection protocol, and any code upgrades required. A quote that just says 'reroof, 22 squares, $11,000' is not enough. Without a detailed scope, comparing bids is meaningless — you don't know what you're comparing.
Red flag: They resist putting specifics in writing or say 'we'll work out the details once we start.'
Ask who will actually be on your roof
Many roofing companies subcontract the labor to separate crews, often with minimal oversight from the company you hired. This isn't automatically a problem — but ask: Are they your employees or subs? Who supervises the installation? Will a project manager be on-site during the critical phases? A company that can't answer these questions clearly probably can't answer questions about the work quality either.
Red flag: They can't tell you who's showing up or have never met the crew they plan to use.
Understand the payment schedule before signing
Standard payment structure: 0–30% upfront (to order materials), remainder on completion. Never pay more than 30% before work begins, and never pay in full until the job is complete and you've inspected it. Some legitimate contractors require nothing upfront. Anyone asking for 50%+ upfront before a single shingle is laid should be viewed with skepticism.
Red flag: Requesting 50%+ or full payment upfront, or cash-only with no receipt.
Confirm they're pulling the permit
A full roof replacement requires a permit in most jurisdictions. The permit process involves a building inspection that verifies the installation was done correctly. Contractors who suggest skipping permits to save time or money are protecting themselves — not you. Without a permit, you may have difficulty selling the home and may be forced to redo the work legally before closing.
Red flag: They suggest the permit is 'optional' or suggest you pull it yourself to 'save money.'
The Fastest Red Flag Screen
Before you schedule any in-person meetings, run this 5-minute check:
- 1.Google the company name + your city + 'reviews' — read the 1-star ones
- 2.Look up their contractor license number on your state licensing board site
- 3.Check when their business was registered (county recorder or Secretary of State website)
- 4.Verify their address is real — Google Street View the business location
- 5.Search their phone number on reverse lookup — multiple names attached to the same number is a flag
Frequently Asked Questions
How many roofing quotes should I get?
Three is the standard — enough to identify the realistic price range and compare scopes, but not so many that you're managing a dozen contractors through your project. If one quote is dramatically lower than the others, find out why before dismissing it or accepting it. It usually means a different scope, lower-grade materials, or a shortcut you haven't spotted yet.
Should I hire a local or national roofing company?
Local, established contractors generally provide better accountability — they have a reputation to protect in your community, are easier to reach for warranty work, and are less likely to disappear after completing the job. Large national companies use local subcontractors anyway, often with thin oversight. Ask how long the company has been operating locally and whether their crews are employees or subcontractors.
What license and insurance should a roofer have?
Requirements vary by state, but at minimum: a contractor's license for your state (verify it on your state licensing board's website), general liability insurance (minimum $1M coverage), and workers' compensation insurance covering their crew. Ask for a Certificate of Insurance listing your property as additional insured — this protects you from liability if a worker is injured on your property.
What should be in my roofing contract?
At minimum: specific shingle brand, product line, and warranty; underlayment type; scope of tearoff and disposal; decking inspection and replacement protocol; drip edge and starter strip inclusion; timeline with start and completion dates; payment schedule (never pay more than 30% upfront); permit responsibility; and warranty on labor. Any contractor who won't put these in writing is telling you something important.
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